The Butterfly Islands Guadeloupe, Feb 24-27,2006

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Guadeloupe - Our favorite islands in the Caribbean An overcast day as we unload our garbage in Deshaies (Day-Hay) It was Saturday and the town was in mourning Hundreds of people marched in a funeral procession A most unusual ceaser salad Two poched eggs with soft yokes crown the top Where I wait alone for Karen and Linda and Steve People frequently ask, what are our favorite islands in the Caribbean? After five visits, we must admit to Guadeloupe as being our favorite. The main islands are large and varied with numerous beaches, water falls, volcanoes, and rain forests. As a Departement of France, they are well developed with excellent facilities. In addition to the butterfly shaped main islands, they include the outer islands of La Deserade, Les Saints, and Marie Galante, each with its own unique flavor. We enjoy the French culture, language, and food. It is a stew with pleasant ingredients and a wonderful aroma. We highly recommend you taste it if you have the chance. Besides the BVI, it is our most frequented group of islands. We made landfall on Guadeloupe on Saturday in the north west corner of Basse Terre in the town of Deshaies. It was a bit dreary and overcast, but immediately brought back warm feelings as we recalled previous visits. It is very satisfying to return to a place visited in the past. It has a gentle familiarity which encourages you to rediscover restaurants where you shared a beer or walks with a special view. Forgotten memories emerge to heighten the experience. When we arrived, we were greeted by people lining the streets as if in anticipation of a parade. When we inquired, we determined that they were waiting for a funeral procession to pass by. We moved into the background to watch. Looking like tourists, dressed like sailors, and wearing the wrong skin color, we did not want to insult the event. We were clearly intruders in a solemn occasion. We found a crevice between two buildings to observe without being observed. As the hearse approached, it was lead by women carrying flowers. When it passed, all the bystanders joined in the procession, making it quickly grow to hundreds of persons. The deceased was clearly a well know person in the community. Due to the funeral, or because it was Saturday, or just because it was the Caribbean, Customs was closed. We spent the night and left at day light the next morning. We had intended to sail to Pointe-A-Pitre (PTP) the next day, but as we exited the leeward side of the island we were bashed by 30 knot winds. Sailing or motoring into those winds was not to be. Instead we sailed for Les Saintes. Under two reefs, we sailed close-hauled, on a port tack, for three hours in 30 knots winds, the strongest I had seen since leaving Bermuda. It was a bit testy, but fun at the same time. We spent Sunday afternoon and night in the Les Saintes before sailing to PTP. With no customs on Les Saintes, we had now been in the country for two days without clearing in. I was getting nervous. The next morning, we were now able to sail on a starboard tack right into the main harbor of PTP. The winds were back to normal, and we had pleasant four hour sail. Fortunately, we got a spot in the Bas du Fort Marina. The marina was surprisingly full, and we got the second to the last slip available. It was another stern to mooring with wind on the beam, which required multiple attempts to get in. Eventually, we might, just might, get it down. Due to the pending Carnival, Customs was again closed. Surely they would be open tomorrow. It is now Tuesday morning, Karen is due to return home this afternoon, we have been in the country for four days and have not yet cleared in. My nervousness is now changing to genuine concern. What will I do if Karen has to leave before we have cleared in. The women in the marina agreed to fax our paper work to the main customs office. To my surprise, they stamped it approved and faxed it back in fifteen minutes. We were now in the country legally and Karen was free to depart that afternoon. Both Karen and I were going to return home, but after talking it over, it seems unnecessary for both of us to go, so she flew home Tuesday afternoon, and I remained in Guadeloupe to prepare the boat for the next phase of our trip. We have new guests arriving March 9th. Previous | Next